Twenty years of loving pets. Twenty years of being cat parents. Twenty years of endless joy that we would give up in a heartbeat for more. We're glad you're getting ready to become a cat parent too.
But the truth of the matter is that cat owners have no instruction manuals to consult. Even for a low-maintenance animal, the intriguing cat has its needs. If you fulfill the needs of the cat, your mysterious visitors become your true loving partners.
This guide provides you with information necessary before you bring a cat into your home. Essentially, you can think of it as a map to successful cat parenting.
Quick note: At Made With Purrpose®, we think every cat in the world needs a safe and loving home. If you have not adopted a cat yet, perhaps you would consider going to your local animal shelter. About 7 in 10 of the cats in shelters have not been adopted. That seems to be a lack of opportunity for some very deserving pets. Maybe your BFF could be there.
Essential Supplies Checklist: What to Buy Before Bringing Your Cat Home
Well before your new cat arrives, prepare everything for them. Cats prefer being around familiar sights and activities and find relief when their needs can be taken care of with minimal disruption.
The Must-Haves
Food and Water Bowls
Use shallow and broad enough bowls so the whiskers do not come into contact with the sides while eating (whisker fatigue). It should be made from either stainless steel and porcelain. A water fountain may be desirable; some cats drink more from this system and seem to benefit the kidneys.
Quality Cat Food
More on this subject later in the nutrition section, but for now, start with the food the shelter or breeder was feeding and then gradually introduce your brand after 7-10 days.
Litter Box
Rule of thumb: one for each cat and one additional. For your first cat: two litters. Make them larger than you suspect necessary—cats enjoy roaming and digging around. As for whether they should be covered or uncovered: start them off uncovered for easy accessibility.
Cat Litter
Unscented and clumping litter is usually the best. Cats may find scents unpleasant. It is easy to remove with a clumping formula. About 2-3 inches should be maintained.
Scratching Posts
Cats must scratch to stretch, to claim territory, and to take care of their nails. Provide at least one high sturdy scratching post (which shouldn’t be wobbly). Cats prefer scratching sisal rope, other scraping surfaces might be made out of cardboard and carpet.
Cat Carrier
It is imperative for vet appointments and emergencies. Purchase a hard-sided carrier that opens from the top and front for easier entry and exiting for your kitty if she refuses to come out voluntarily. Place the carrier out with a blanket so your cat considers it a haven and not just a destination for vet appointments.
Bed or Cozy Spot
Cats sleep for 12-16 hours a day. Provide them with comfortable alternatives. Don’t be surprised if they snub at a fancy bed and sleep in a cardboard box—that is just what cats do.
Key Extras
Interactive Toys
Wand toys and other playthings such as balls and puzzle feeders give the cat exercise and mental stimulation.
Brush or Comb
Short-haired cats can also benefit from being brushed. It prevents them from shedding and creates a great bonding session.
Nail Clippers
Use cat specific clips. Start with handling kitty's paws so trimming becomes second nature.
ID Tag and Microchip
Indoor cats should be identified as well. Cats can find ways to escape outside. A collar with a tag containing basic identification and a microchip can allow for easy return should they be lost.
Creating Your Home Environment: Cat-Proofing and Safe Zones
Before bringing your cat back home, examine your environment with fresh eyes. Cats love to explore and may find ways to cause harm if they find potential.
Cat-Proofing Essentials
Secure Toxic Plants
Many common houseplants are dangerous to cats. Lilies are especially deadly—even a small amount of pollen can cause fatal kidney failure. Other toxic plants include pothos, philodendron, aloe, and sago palm. Either remove these plants or place them in rooms your cat can't access. Safe alternatives include spider plants, Boston ferns, and cat grass.
Hide Electrical Cords
Some cats love chewing cords, which can cause burns, electrocution, or choking. Use cord covers, hide cords behind furniture, or apply bitter apple spray as a deterrent.
Store Chemicals Safely
Cleaning solutions, medicines, and certain oils may be poisonous. These should be stored under closed cabinets. Cats can open unscrewed cabinets; thus, safety latches may be necessary.
Check for Small Spaces
Cats enjoy small areas. Look for spots behind appliances such as washers and dryers and fridges. Block any area they might be able to squeeze into and harm themselves.
Secure Windows and Screens
Cats may be able to squeeze between loose screens to bird-watch. Ensure that screens are properly secured. Never open windows without screens—windows can be very hazardous from heights.
Put Away Small Objects
Hair ties, rubber bands, strings, and small toys can create significant blockages when swallowed. Such items should be kept out of reach and closely watched if they come with strings.
Creating Safe Spaces
Upon arrival, give your cat a "base camp," a quiet room they can enter before exploring the house.
The Ideal Base Camp Includes:
- Litter box in one corner
- Food and water in the opposite corner (cats don't like eating near their bathroom)
- A cozy hiding spot (a box with a blanket, a cat bed in a corner, or space under a bed)
- A scratching post
- Some toys
- Something with your scent on it (an old t-shirt works great)
Let your cat investigate this room first. Some may come out within hours; others may take weeks. Go at their natural pace. Stressed cats can be unhealthy ones.
Vertical Space Matters
Cats feel secure when they can see from above. Include cat trees, shelves, and possibly a designated bookshelf area for them to utilize. This is useful in houses with multiple kids and other pets.
Nutrition Basics: Wet vs. Dry Food and Feeding Schedules
It really matters what you feed. Diet is important for coats and energy levels and overall health.
Wet Food vs. Dry Food: The Quick Comparison
Wet Food Pros:
- Higher moisture content (cats do not drink much water)
- Usually higher in protein, lower in carbohydrates
- More palatable for picky eaters
- Easier for cats with dental problems
Wet Food Cons:
- More expensive per meal
- Expires soon after being opened (refrigerate and use within 2-3 days)
- Not suitable for free-feeding
Dry Food Pros:
- Convenient and cheaper
- Can be left out to graze
- Longer shelf life
- Some dental benefits (debated)
Dry Food Cons:
- Lower moisture
- Often higher in carbohydrates
- Easy to overfeed, resulting in obesity
Our Recommendation: A combination of both is recommended by many vets: wet for hydration and protein, and dry for convenience. Quality food with meat first and minimal fillers and nutrients necessary for the stage of life (kitten, adult, senior cat) is paramount.
How Much and How Often to Feed
It varies with age, weight, and activity levels. First, check the package instructions; then use these guidelines:
Kittens (under 1 year): Require more nutrients for growth. Feed 3-4 small meals a day. Or free-feed with kitten feed.
Adult Cats (1-10 years): Cats should be fed twice a day. Portion should be controlled to prevent obesity.
Senior Cats (10+ years): Some senior cats may require smaller amounts or senior cat food. Additionally, some senior cats may do well with more frequent meals.
Pro Tip: Puzzle toys can slow down dogs that wolf down food. Also great for indoor dogs.
Foods to NEVER Feed Your Cat
- Onions and garlic (toxic, can cause anemia)
- Chocolate (contains theobromine, which is toxic)
- Grapes and raisins (can cause kidney failure)
- Alcohol (extremely dangerous)
- Caffeine (toxic to cats)
- Raw eggs, raw meat, raw fish (risk of bacteria and parasites)
- Dog food (lacks essential nutrients cats need)
- Milk and dairy (most adult cats are lactose intolerant)
The Litter Box: Let's Just Get Through This
Nobody's favorite topic, but if you get this wrong, you'll know. Either your cat will let you know by going somewhere else, or your house will smell like... well, you know.
Box Basics
Size: Bigger than you think. The box should be about 1.5 times the length of your cat. They need room to turn around and dig.
Covered or uncovered? Start uncovered. Most cats prefer it—they can see their surroundings and don't feel trapped. Covered boxes also trap odors inside, which might be nice for you but is awful for them.
Self-cleaning boxes: These can be great or terrifying, depending on your cat. The motor noise and movement freak some cats out completely. Maybe try a regular box first and upgrade later if you want.
Location, Location, Location
Where you put the box matters more than you'd expect.
Do:
- Put it somewhere quiet and low-traffic
- Make sure your cat can access it 24/7
- Place boxes on multiple floors if you have a multi-story home
- Give them an escape route (don't put it in a corner where they could feel trapped)
Don't:
- Put it next to loud appliances (washer, dryer, furnace)
- Hide it so well your cat can't find it
- Put it near their food (would you want to eat next to a toilet?)
Cleaning: The Non-Negotiable Part
Cats are clean animals. If the box is gross, they won't use it. Simple as that.
Every day: Scoop. Twice if you can. It takes 30 seconds and prevents so many problems.
Every week: Top up the litter to maintain 2-3 inches of depth.
Every month: Dump everything, wash the box with mild soap (no strong chemicals), dry it completely, and refill with fresh litter.
Every year: Replace plastic boxes entirely. Even with cleaning, scratches harbor bacteria and odors.
Watch for warning signs: If your cat suddenly stops using the box, starts going right next to it, or strains without producing anything, call your vet. Urinary blockages (especially in male cats) can be life-threatening, and infections are miserable for everyone.
The First Vet Visit
Schedule this for within the first week—even if your cat seems totally healthy. It establishes a baseline, catches any hidden issues, and gets your cat into the system before there's an emergency.
What'll Happen
The vet will do a nose-to-tail physical exam: eyes, ears, teeth, heart, lungs, belly, skin, coat. They'll weigh your cat and assess their overall body condition.
They'll probably talk about:
- Vaccines — core vaccines include FVRCP and rabies
- Parasite testing — bring a poop sample if you can (glamorous, I know)
- FeLV/FIV testing — especially important if you have other cats or don't know your cat's history
- Spaying/neutering — if not already done, discuss timing
- Microchipping — quick, easy, and could save your cat's life someday
Questions to Actually Ask
Vets are busy, so come prepared. Here are the good ones:
- What food do you recommend for my cat?
- How much should they weigh, and how much should I feed them?
- What's the vaccine schedule from here?
- What parasite prevention should we use?
- What symptoms should make me call you immediately?
- Do you have any new-cat-parent resources?
- What's the deal with pet insurance—is it worth it?
Speaking of insurance: ask about it now. Many policies require you to enroll within a certain window, and having coverage before something goes wrong is the whole point.
Understanding What Your Cat Is Telling You
Cats communicate constantly. They're just not using words, so it's on us to learn their language. Once you do, it's like a whole new relationship opens up.
The Tail
Straight up: "Hey! I'm happy to see you!" This is a friendly greeting.
Straight up with a little hook at the end: "I'm curious about something."
Puffed up like a bottle brush: "I'm scared or angry and trying to look bigger."
Tucked low or between legs: "I'm anxious or feeling submissive."
Thrashing back and forth: "I'm agitated. Stop whatever you're doing." Seriously, stop. This is not a happy wag like a dog.
The Ears
Forward and upright: Alert, interested, content.
Turned sideways or back (airplane ears): Getting nervous or annoyed.
Flat against the head: Scared or angry. This is the "back off" position.
The Eyes
Slow blinks: This is huge. A slow blink is basically "I love you" or "I trust you" in cat. Do it back! It's how you tell them you love them too.
Wide eyes with big pupils: Excited, playful, or scared—context matters.
Hard stare without blinking: Could be a challenge or sign of tension. Don't stare back; just slowly look away.
The Body
Lying on their side or back, belly exposed: Maximum trust and relaxation. This is a compliment. It is NOT necessarily an invitation to touch the belly—many cats will grab your hand and bunny-kick it if you try. The audacity.
Arched back, fur standing up: "I'm scared but I'll fight if I have to."
Rubbing against you: They're marking you with their scent. You're theirs now. Congratulations.
The Sounds
Meowing: Fun fact—adult cats mostly only meow at humans, not each other. Your cat is literally talking to you. Different meows mean different things, and you'll learn your cat's vocabulary over time.
Purring: Usually contentment, but cats also purr when stressed or in pain as a self-soothing thing. Pay attention to context.
Chattering at birds through the window: Frustration, excitement, or maybe some ancient hunting instinct. It's weird and hilarious.
Hissing or growling: "Back. Off." Respect this.
That 3 AM yowling: Could be hunger, boredom, mating instincts (if not fixed), or—in older cats—cognitive issues. Or maybe they just saw a ghost. Who knows. Cats.
Your First Week: What to Expect
Real talk: the first week might not be magical. Your cat might hide under the bed for three days straight. They might not eat much. They might look at you like you're a stranger who kidnapped them.
This is normal.
Day 1: Set up base camp before they arrive. Bring them in, open the carrier in that room, and let them come out on their own terms. Sit quietly nearby. Don't force interaction. Let them hide if they need to.
Days 2-3: Keep things calm and consistent. Feed at the same times. Sit in the room and just exist—read, work on your laptop, whatever. Let them get used to you without pressure. Most cats will start venturing out to investigate.
Days 4-5: If they seem comfortable, open the door and let them explore more at their own pace. Keep base camp available as their safe zone.
Days 5-7: First vet visit. Continue building trust through gentle play and predictable routine.
Beyond: Gradually expand their world. Start brushing. Introduce more of the house. Watch their personality emerge.
Some cats are snuggling on your lap by day three. Some take weeks to feel safe. Both are normal. Meet your cat where they are.
You've Got This
I know this was a lot. But here's what I want you to remember:
Cats have been choosing to live with humans for thousands of years. They're adaptable. They're resilient. And they're very, very good at training us to meet their needs.
You don't have to be perfect. You just have to pay attention, be patient, and actually care—which you clearly do, because you read this whole thing.
And if you adopted from a shelter? You didn't just get a pet. You saved a life. That matters more than you know.
Welcome to cat life. It's going to be weird and wonderful.
At Made With Purrpose®, we make stuff that cat people love—and every purchase supports rescues saving cats just like yours. Because we think every cat deserves a safe place to land. Check out what we're up to, and come be part of the mission.
Got questions? Stories about your new cat? Things I missed? Drop them in the comments, we'd love to hear from you.
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